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Fakes & FraudsBlatant manipulation of color photographs
19th May 2013 03:34 UTCNeal Luppescu
Great bright pink color and blue-green termination, right? Well look at the color of the finger tips. Not quite human. I have attempted, using photograph editing software, to readjust the colors in the picture so that the fingertips look human, and alas the tourmaline isn't looking nearly as inviting:
There is another theory: the tourmaline could have been irradiated to enhance its color, and the fingers holding the piece were irradiated at the same time. ;-)
Caveat emptor.
19th May 2013 07:50 UTCDan R. Lynch
Just playing devil's advocate here a little bit, but honestly, I agree with you.
19th May 2013 11:59 UTCAlan Barnes (2)
Alan
19th May 2013 12:45 UTCSteve Sorrell Expert
Regards
Steve
19th May 2013 12:49 UTCBob Harman
Another aspect of all this that disappointed me was the small size of many specimens when seen in person. Photos in the magazines often seem to show the specimens out of size context, even when dimensions are given. When the pictured specimen was seen in person in the display case as a thumbnail or small miniature, that diminished the specimen's impact for me. I had developed a (mistaken) mental image of this small mineral specimen being a much larger full cabinet sized example and to see it as very small was disappointing at first. But that is another aspect perhaps worth discussing. CHEERS........BOB
19th May 2013 13:15 UTCVandall Thomas King Manager
19th May 2013 13:43 UTCNelse Miller
As far as the size issue, I have been surprised by the small size of specimens I have purchased online even though the sellers had honestly given the pieces' sizes in their description. I just chalk it up to my difficulty translating numbers into visual images. My mistake one time was mistaking a ruler's divisions as being Engllish units (inches) when they were actually metric (millimeters). My bad.
19th May 2013 13:58 UTCD Mike Reinke
Ouch! Yeah, sad mistake.
When first got aware of the mineral magazines, I was blown away by the photography. But I had to literally clutch a ruler and consult it with each picture, to get used to those dimensions, since I was not raised metric. It took awhile for it to sink in how small some of these beautiful pieces were. But it also made me want to photograph all of my collection!
19th May 2013 14:08 UTCChris Stefano Expert
In all places you might buy a specimen, you had better be careful what you buy, because misrepresentation is rampant everywhere. Even very smart dealers get duped from time to time, so even if you buy from someone who you know to be honest, there may be a problem that they didn't even know about, because not all of their sources are honest.
As for color in photos- one other thing I would point out- I do my best to get the colors as close to reality as I can on MY computer screen. I have regularly noticed that the specimens look either considerably worse or considerably better on other screens. Every computer screen is calibrated differently and the color representation can vary a lot. This is what my return policy is for- if a specimen comes and it wasn't everything you hoped it would be, return it for a refund. If the ebay (or any other internet seller) does not have a good return policy, don't buy from them.
Ebay is not evil. I have built a significant portion of my collection by purchasing on Ebay, and many other serious collectors also use this valuable tool to build their collections.
19th May 2013 14:41 UTCGary Moldovany
19th May 2013 15:06 UTCFred E. Davis
Really?
Van, what do think of those fingers?
19th May 2013 15:33 UTCPaul Brandes 🌟 Manager
19th May 2013 15:37 UTCSteve Hardinger 🌟 Expert
19th May 2013 15:43 UTCFred E. Davis
19th May 2013 17:23 UTCRob Woodside 🌟 Manager
Photography for vending is a real skill. If the photo is far better you may make faster sales, but you'll get more returns and a bad rep. If the photo is worse than the specimen any purchaser will be pleased. The trick is to honestly document the piece. Fortunately any real dealer does not have the time to muck about with the photo. Collectors however have all the time in the world.
19th May 2013 17:52 UTCVandall Thomas King Manager
Chris, I'm not sure what you're hearing is eBay bashing. That would suggest a hateful and "pewrsonal" attack. The operative issue is color manipulation. If you need outside the electronic world examples, just look at the amazonites in John Barlow's collection book.
19th May 2013 18:50 UTCDavid Von Bargen Manager
19th May 2013 19:39 UTCTim Jokela Jr
Smoke 3 packs a day for a decade or two and your fingertips will look like that.
I'd like to see an x-ray of the poor bugger's lungs.
19th May 2013 21:05 UTCSteven Kuitems Expert
Steve.
19th May 2013 21:21 UTCRob Woodside 🌟 Manager
And Yes a ruler by the screen is essential when shopping the net.;-)
19th May 2013 23:01 UTCTimothy Blackwood
I uploaded photo 527507 to the galleries. I did not personally take the photo and have no knowledge of the camera used. Also, I did nothing to the color of the photo prior to uploading it. I've never even seen the specimen in person. It is apparent to me that different cameras may sense and render colors differently. What appeared to be turquoise-blue in person may be made to look very different by the camera's sensor. I've uploaded several photos of specimens from my own collection lately and have noticed variations in color depending upon the color of background, whether or not I used the camera's flash and whether or not I used additional backlighting. Just some thoughts. But please do not assume that all photos have been manipulated. I still haven't figured out how to accurately show a specimen's true color in every case. Returning to quietly lurking now until I have something else to say.
Best wishes,
Tim
Cohasset, Minnesota, USA
20th May 2013 00:31 UTCJeff Weissman Expert
As far as blatant or inadvertent image manipulation, I could name names and some have made POTD as well; but I could also name many who do a good job with accurate color and color balance/saturation rendition.
As far as the tourmaline image that started this thread, the image is either over saturated or strongly backlit, making the crystal more attractive than it appears - the image should have an associated note stating that it is backlit, otherwise, buyer beware and quite whining.
Tim J. - the acerbic comments here and elsewhere are greatly enjoyed!
20th May 2013 02:17 UTCTimothy Blackwood
I was actually referring to the amazonite shown in the message from Fred Davis on page 1 of this thread (I did reference the photo ID number given in that message).
Tim B.
20th May 2013 02:24 UTCJenna Mast
When viewing photos of specimens on computers, one thing people should keep in mind is that different devices aren't necessarily properly color calibrated so what looks one shade of blue on my monitor might be another shade of blue on your monitor. Or what might look purple on my monitor, might look pink on yours.
20th May 2013 05:11 UTCAndrew Johns
Andrew.
20th May 2013 05:21 UTCTimothy Blackwood
20th May 2013 13:46 UTCVincent Rigatti
20th May 2013 15:09 UTCJeff Weissman Expert
20th May 2013 18:47 UTCRonald J. Pellar Expert
Most digital cameras have a white balance setting, but these are only approximate. The best method is if the camera has a "custom" white balance setting that uses a gray card to establish the proper white balance. The gray card should be a spectrally neutral card, not any old white, gray, or black paper or cloth. A lot of white paper has brighteners in them which enhances blue to remove the yellow cast of paper. Gray paper, cloth, etc. are not exactly gray and will look gray under certain lighting but change the lighting and they are no longer neutral gray. The eye and the camera will view these as different and you will have a color "mismatch". There are several companies that make spectrally flat gray cards for the photo industry, e.g., Kodak, Gretag-McBeth, Robin Meyers Imaging, etc. (You can google for more).
Computer displays have there own color rendering problems. The old CRT displays are roughly equivalent to the sRGB color space that many digital cameras default to. More expensive DSLR cameras can and should be set to AdobeRGB color space. This space is a better match to the modern LCD color displays. Your computer display can usually be set to a "default color profile", but for very critical color matching the display should be measured for color and a specific "profile" created. The display profile setting affects the translation of color values from the camera to what the display can handle. The AdobeRGB color space has a larger color gamut than the sRGB color space, i.e., it can reproduce more saturated colors.
In general, for reasonable color rendition,
1) set the white balance properly (preferably with a spectrally neutral gray card),
2) do not use fluorescent or LED lighting,
3) use natural daylight or tungsten lighting,
4) do not mix different types of lighting,
5) set camera to AdobeRGB color values, if possible,
6) set LCD displays to AdobeRGB profile.
This should reduce any necessary color tweaking considerably.
I follow these steps for my photography and I do not have an issue with the appearance of the minerals on my display, even with some of the more problematic minerals like dioptase.
Ron
20th May 2013 18:52 UTCTimothy Blackwood
I definitely think the corrections you made to the amazonite photo better represent the true color. In taking photos, I usually set the camera to "Auto". It doesn't always give the best results. I really need to review the manual about how to change the color/white balance. I'm still learning.
Best wishes,
Tim
20th May 2013 19:14 UTCA. M.
Some hardystonites are associated with highly fluorescent willemite - I don't have a specialized equipment, it's a simple digital point & shoot camera. In those cases it's hard capture the much darker hardystonite blue - the willemite will overexpose. I make a note about that in the description, so again, I can only hope that the viewer will read, see and understand. I don't do it intentionally, it's just what it is with what I have.
As for the size - whenever I think of buying something I take out a ruler and see what 2 centimeters or 2 inches looks like on my hand. If the piece is measured within reason then there are no surprises when it arrives.
ATSM
20th May 2013 19:43 UTCJeff Weissman Expert
You can also get a Gretag color chart, or similar, to help in post processing, these include both black, white and grey, as well as primary (B/G/R) and secondary (M/C/Y) and other colors all in one chart - just make sure that you photograph the grey card and/or photo-quality color chart with the same illumination as your specimens, and that there are no hot-spots or unwanted reflections off of the card.
LED or fluorescent light sources, by definition, are not full spectrum and os will not accurately capture certain colors; I use either tungsten lamps for larger rocks or off-camera electronic flash for micros - both options are full spectrum and give equally good results, especially when using the color charts and grey cards for post-processing adjustments. With the post-processing and RAW conversion software provided by Canon, you can adjust the color balance on one image, then apply those corrections to all of the images taken at the same time, automagically. I'd also suggest shooting camera RAW in addition to JPG; in this way the color balance of the RAW can be adjusted at will, not relying on the camera's settings. I would not recommend mixing light types, as this could result in muddy colors and backgrounds, and make a good color balance almost impossible.
Finally, for the case of a wide exposure range, such as what Sofia described - a weak fluorescent response in a specimen with strong fluorescence, such as willemite with hardystonite, or in high contrast subjects in general, I have gotten good results by making multiple exposures over a 4 to 6 stop range, then combining in photoshop via layers, this is commonly referred to HIgh Dynamic Range (HDR) imaging - some cameras or software now does this automatically. Just make sure nothing moves, camera, light, or subject, between exposures.
Anyone serious about photographing minerals should get either GIMP (freeware) or Photoshop Elements (about $100 - but easier to use)
21st May 2013 20:03 UTCRonald J. Pellar Expert
Your point about using RAW is well taken. JPEG is a very lossy compression technique and should not be used for anything that you might want to "manipulate" later. Changing white balance, doing any color correction on JPEGs can yield very bad results. You essentially throw away colors and cannot get them back when you work with JPEG.
One other point, if your camera has the capability to change the bit depth, set it to the maximum, e.g., most cameras come set for 8 bits per color, but some higher end cameras allow for a setting of 12 or 14 bits per color (R, G, and B). The higher the bit depth the more manipulation you can perform on the image without serious loss.
When you have the image in final form, only then can you convert to the very lossy 8 bit JPEG for display, print, or upload to MinDat and you will have better quality images.
Ron
9th Jun 2013 03:34 UTCAnonymous User
Many oversea's seller routinely enhance photo's I used to see this on ebay all the time. It doesn't take an idiot to spot most of them, ya know.
I did a little essay a couple years back focusing on lights and their respective Kelvin temp.
I have yet to find any bulb that even comes close to natural sunlight, which most of you know already.
I never buy or even consider daylight spectrum bulbs or anything claiming to be "daylight equivalent" or "full spectrum". Bulbs with the 5000K claim still lack the kick sunlight does.
I actually prefer to use two different bulbs when photographing specimens, gemstones, etc. If I have a blue or green stone I use my 6200K Ott fluorescent lights(the ones GIA used to use to grade stones) and for red and yellow stones and specimens I use my Solux 4700K bulb.
They both add that little amount of similar color to give the specimen more depth, less tone, and more saturation. I want my blue or green stones to stand out more so I use a light that adds a slight blue/green component and vice versa with the other end. Nothing wrong with that since both light are something you encounter every day from Wal-Mart overhead fluorescents, classrooms, and offices or in the family room with an incandescent or grandma's house in the bathroom with it's 2700K bulbs.
A stone and specimen's color is a function of the light it's viewed under. All stones color shift to some degree. All stones are color shifters.....gemstones and minerals alike.
11th Jun 2013 00:49 UTCNeal Luppescu
I have taken two more pictures posed by the dealer from eBay. The first is of a colorless pollucite. Note the color of the person's skin: normal.
Then look at the skin color in the second photo. The skin tone is a deep yellowish brown, done very easily with picture processing software by increasing the color saturation. The tourmaline is freakishly phosphorescent in color.
This is not an accidental, innocent mistake.
Caveat emptor.
11th Jun 2013 08:37 UTCJolyon Ralph Founder
Photos can always be distorted. If you search for bargains on ebay you inevitably put yourself at risk from unscrupulous traders. Either stick with traders you trust or only buy things you see in person.
12th Jun 2013 02:15 UTCNeal Luppescu
12th Jun 2013 03:10 UTCDoug Daniels
12th Jun 2013 06:03 UTCJohn M Stolz Expert
Your passion for integrity is clear, but you do yourself a disservice. Worry about the stuff you have control over; don't worry about the things you can't change.
When someone does something that sits wrong with you, simply don't do business with them again. What you can marvel at instead, is how cheaply they sell their reputation.
12th Jun 2013 08:20 UTCJesse Fisher Expert
I have taken lots of mineral photos and have found that certain minerals are difficult to get right no matter what you do. I suspect that most folks selling on ebay do not have the skills or experience of a professional or even advanced amateur photographer, and are simply trying to get some images with an automatic "point and shoot" type of camera. I do not expect that these people will be able to get good images of many minerals with their limited skill and rudimentary equipment. Yes, it is very easy to select the "Enhance Saturation" function in the photo editor and make a tourmaline crystal look as if it has a deeper color. I think, however, that most of the inaccurate photos on ebay (and other sales sites) are likely the result of a lack of skill or attention to detail on the part of the photographer rather than purposeful deception.
12th Jun 2013 09:03 UTCIbrahim Jameel Expert
And it's more than just color manipulation. That second tourmaline has probably been irradiated. When I see their treated minerals for sale on Facebook, I always post a comment pointing out the treatment.... unfortunately, People keep buying, so they keep selling.
12th Jun 2013 12:49 UTCMarcus Voigt
"He can do whatever he wants to, but doesn't he realize that he is harming his business by misrepresenting his wares? "
(June 12, 2013 01:15AM)
:-S
Either I do not understand you......or there is more to this thread .
25th Jun 2013 19:35 UTCAmanda Hawkins
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