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Mineral Photographyspecimen supports.
24th Nov 2010 10:44 UTCStephen Eglinton
Steve.
24th Nov 2010 11:28 UTCRalph S Bottrill 🌟 Manager
24th Nov 2010 11:57 UTCClosed Account 🌟
I nearly fell from my chair laughing about your answer!
Branko
24th Nov 2010 13:21 UTCRalph S Bottrill 🌟 Manager
you obviously need some support too!
24th Nov 2010 13:31 UTCScott Sadlocha
I have used mineral tack in some cases, but then the glass needs to be cleaned occasionally when moving on to a new specimen when the old mineral tack spot can be seen. Also, I have used just about anything I can find around my desk in some situations where I am just grabbing for something that might work.
24th Nov 2010 13:38 UTCRalph S Bottrill 🌟 Manager
24th Nov 2010 14:52 UTCMatthew Barrand
Matt
24th Nov 2010 15:52 UTCIbrahim Jameel Expert
Whatever the case, I find that it works better if you tack the support to the table too...
24th Nov 2010 16:08 UTCAlexander Carrington
24th Nov 2010 16:22 UTCJohn Truax
24th Nov 2010 16:54 UTCIbrahim Jameel Expert
It was photoshoped (Photoshop CS3). I use a combinatoin of the "Magic Wand" and "Polygonal Lasso" tools to get all of the background, then i convert that part of the image to black and white (Image => Adjustments => Black & White) and then tweak the brightness and contrast till it looks white enough, but not absurd.
If I dont, the background comes out gray or brownish (despite having a perfectly white background) from a combination of the digital camera's software adjusting to the lighting type and brightness...
The whole fix takes about 35 seconds per image, once you get the hang of it.
I'm sure there's a better way of doing all this, but i don't know it.
ibrahim
24th Nov 2010 17:44 UTCDon Saathoff Expert
Don S.
24th Nov 2010 18:13 UTCPaul Brandes 🌟 Manager
24th Nov 2010 18:29 UTCJean-Michel Trillaud
As I have many Staurolite crystals (single ones, not twined), and many sizes of them , I use them as kind of an edge to support the mineral to be photographed. Depending the rock size , I adjust the 'Staurolite-support' size.
Or I stick some wax on the glass on which I put the rock. After then it's easy to clean.
Regs
Jean-Michel Trillaud
24th Nov 2010 21:25 UTCStephen Eglinton
Steve.
24th Nov 2010 22:22 UTCStephen Eglinton
I'll have to become more inventive... thanks for your ideas.
Tack is so versatile as a support medium, but my main concern with the stuff is the applying to and removing from specimen matrix. Every time with its use, you "eat away" at the matrix, as in the crumbly matrix of a Cumengeite specimen... i would be a nervous wreck using tack more than once on my "stabilised" Cumengeite (at $3,500). I only ever like to apply tack once to a specimen... in positioning a specimen to its permanent display base.
Steve.
24th Nov 2010 22:42 UTCMaggie Wilson Expert
Here's my functional if not your typical photo studio. It is sitting on a glass topped coffee table. When I take my photos, I sit on the floor with legs outstretched under the table - not typical by any means, but easy on my back and I am as stable as I'm going to be - I can hold the camera resting it on the floor of the box if I need to.
The box is a large plastic storage tub with the hinged lid removed. We spray painted the interior to enhance reflected light. At the bottom left hand side of the box are three pieces that I use for supporting my subjects. The mineral tack and plastic mineral display stand I rarely use. What I do make good use of is the small wedge-shaped styrofoam. And often I don't use any support other than the curved portion of the backing - shown in this shot as a black piece of thick art board flexible enough to bend into place - held at the bottom by thumb tacks and at the top by the ridge of the tub. I use thin sheets of artists' sketch paper on top of the black - and interchange the backing as suits the mineral, but the majority of my shots are done on white.
I also make great use of editing software to eliminate any grotesque and intrusive supporting bits. Not always, as you can plainly see from the shots I've posted. Lately though, I have become more sensitive to what features make a good picture, and mineral tack is not one of them!
25th Nov 2010 04:10 UTCAnonymous User
10th Dec 2010 04:18 UTCJamey Swisher
22nd Dec 2010 11:56 UTCStephen Eglinton
Very interesting rig. I take it that you are happy with the results. Must be quite satisfying obtaining wonderful results from your own creation, and without it costing you too much.
I am at the stage of designing my own rig, i've something in mind, hope it pans out... mind if i employ some of your ideas? Think i have an idea that replaces Mineral Tack as a support.
Thanks again Maggie.
Steve.
22nd Dec 2010 12:09 UTCStephen Eglinton
But what i really hate is the hot glue.
Steve.
22nd Dec 2010 12:27 UTCStephen Eglinton
I bought 2 jars of Museum Gel / Quake Gel to use specifically as a replacement for Mineral Tack. My experience with it was dismal... it wouldn't hold and maintain the weight of my specimens. Even my thumbnail Euclase crystal with hardly any weight in it, kept (slowly) toppling sideways. I gave up in the end and returned to using Mineral Tack. Seems to me that the gel is fine for bonding, but useless as a support.
Regarding your experience with the Gel, AM I USING IT CORRECTLY !???
Steve.
22nd Dec 2010 13:18 UTCMike Royal
mike
22nd Dec 2010 13:24 UTCJolyon Ralph Founder
It's strong, it's easy to remove.
Jolyon
22nd Dec 2010 15:57 UTCMaggie Wilson Expert
Good luck with your setup! Let us know how you make out.
Maggie
22nd Dec 2010 18:24 UTCAnonymous User
I hate hot glue, especially for TNs that someone has mounted to the open-celled foam insert in a perky. As everyone knows, hot glue is only good for securing steel arrow points to wooden shafts....
31st Jan 2011 04:42 UTCJamey Swisher
21st Dec 2016 20:32 UTCJake Trexel
21st Dec 2016 22:49 UTCAlex Homenuke Expert
Try photographing with a light box (like a slide viewer) for a base. Takes care of shadows and you can use coloured film to change the background colour.
23rd Dec 2016 16:28 UTCEd Clopton 🌟 Expert
To hold things in position for repairs (not just specimens, but figurines, pottery, etc.) I sometimes nestle them in the desired orientation in a bowl of hulled (not pearled) barley that I reserve for that purpose. The object can be stood at whatever angle will hold the glued part in place by gravity while it sets up. The barley grains are rough enough to hold most objects in position without sliding around (better than rice in that regard); they are soft enough not to scratch surfaces; and they are large enough not to get into crevices (or to be retrieved with tweezers if they do). I don't use this method often, but sometimes it's just the thing.
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