Learning CenterWhat is a mineral?The most common minerals on earthInformation for EducatorsMindat ArticlesThe ElementsThe Rock H. Currier Digital LibraryGeologic Time
搜索矿物的性质搜索矿物的化学Advanced Locality Search随意显示任何一 种矿物Random Locality使用minID搜索邻近产地Search Articles搜索词汇表更多搜索选项
╳Discussions
💬 Home🔎 Search📅 LatestGroups
EducationOpen discussion area.Fakes & FraudsOpen discussion area.Field CollectingOpen discussion area.FossilsOpen discussion area.Gems and GemologyOpen discussion area.GeneralOpen discussion area.How to ContributeOpen discussion area.Identity HelpOpen discussion area.Improving Mindat.orgOpen discussion area.LocalitiesOpen discussion area.Lost and Stolen SpecimensOpen discussion area.MarketplaceOpen discussion area.MeteoritesOpen discussion area.Mindat ProductsOpen discussion area.Mineral ExchangesOpen discussion area.Mineral PhotographyOpen discussion area.Mineral ShowsOpen discussion area.Mineralogical ClassificationOpen discussion area.Mineralogy CourseOpen discussion area.MineralsOpen discussion area.Minerals and MuseumsOpen discussion area.PhotosOpen discussion area.Techniques for CollectorsOpen discussion area.The Rock H. Currier Digital LibraryOpen discussion area.UV MineralsOpen discussion area.Recent Images in Discussions
Mineral Photographyeasy tips for photographing minerals with med.-grade camera
26th May 2015 20:33 UTCMatt Courville
I suppose my biggest concern is to avoid that dull and/or fuzzy look to my photographs due to the lighting. Outside pictures seem to glare, yet indoor ones seems to have lighting issues; even with more than one light source.
Any set-ups or tricks would be fantastic. Thanks, Matt
26th May 2015 20:36 UTCJeff Weissman Expert
This is essentially what I do for specimens from 10 cm to 1 mm, although I now use studio lights for the larger specimens, and either dedicated macro-flash or fiber-optic illuminator for the smaller specimens, with the light always diffused.
And practice, of course
27th May 2015 14:35 UTCMatt Courville
2nd Jun 2015 02:04 UTCOwen Melfyn Lewis
To reveal fine detail, you also need to be able to work at x10 - x30 optical magnification. Avoid digital zooming like the plague. This is no more than image cropping carried out in the camera rather than by post-camera processing.
5th Jun 2015 14:46 UTCMatt Courville
I could be simply inefficient at tackling the proper settings as well, but am open to anything but purchasing a new camera;)
Matt
5th Jun 2015 14:59 UTCJeff Weissman Expert
5th Jun 2015 15:00 UTCOwen Melfyn Lewis
- Want to list the models?
- What type of camera support do you use? Is it sturdy?
- Do you operate the shutter release manually or with a remote release. If the latter, what type.
7th Jun 2015 15:09 UTCMatt Courville
I've been trying some pre-sets and only used advanced features in a salt mine, which with the 'holding your breath' technique, was about 20% successful. I'm trying to apply the combinations of ISO and aperature under AV mode, but really its a bit of guessing and macro just complicates it more.
I will also try to make a black-interior light box. If anyone feels like sharing their most common set-up settings that would be great. Say for example: ISO 80, aperature f/2.8, and macro with a tripod.
Thanks, Matt
7th Jun 2015 18:04 UTCOwen Melfyn Lewis
-------------------------------------------------------
> Oddly enough, I had posted a response yesterday,
> but it has disappeared.
That happens. More often than it should. Usually (for me at any rate) its usually 'operator finger-trouble'.
> The best household camera
> that I can use is the Canon Powershot SX1IS with a
> 20x optical zoom.
OK, you should be able to achieve a fair amount with that. These days, camera makers get their money by automating the picture making process as far as possible. That's fine for no-brainer party and holiday snaps. For macro-work? Forget it. Use manual control and simple pre-sets and nothing else. This means that *you* make the decisions and the camera doesn't. This also means that you have to know what you are doing (but you don't sound like a complete novice).
1. ISO setting. The theory is that the lower your ISO setting the better (less noisy) your pics will be.You need to experiment, making a series of shots of the same simple subject (some b/w print?), to find, with your camera, at what ISO setting the image quality starts to deteriorate. Then set always to use the highest ISO setting you can below the 'deterioration' point. Many say set to 200 and let it go at that. I find I can use the 400 setting and 800 is not a disaster. What will work for you depends on *your* camera.
2. Auto focus. Disengage if you can and use manual focus, selecting carefully the point in each image that you want to be critically sharp.
3. Light metering. Do *not* use any field of view averaging meter setting. Use spot metering and get the meter setting from the highest point of light return from the subject (otherwise you will get 'burn-out').
4. Set for AV priority. To get the greatest depth of field without image deterioration from diffraction, Stick with f/8 or f/11 for everything - unless you have an overriding need for something else (e.g. you want to reduce the depth of field). Make a few test shots to find out with your camera whether to use f/8 of f/11.
5. AV priority as above means regular use of low shutter speeds (1/25sec - c.4secs). In turn, this means that that you *must* use a tripod or vertical camera stand. You must also use a remote shutter release or, failing that, a timed shutter release. Use the 10sec setting with your camera and not the 2 sec. Sit *still* and don't even breathe whilst waiting for both the shutter to open and close completely.
> I will have to buy a tripod,
Or a vertical stand - or both. Which you need depends on the size of your subject more than anything else. I work near-exclusively with thumb-nail and micromounts and for those I find a vertical stand the better solution (see pic below).
> ... Perhaps in the right set-up the camera
> should be still, and the set-up changes instead?
Yes. If you use a vertical stand, it's the only option anyway.
> I will also try to make a black-interior light
> box.
*If* you want to use a light box/tent (I don't) it needs have a white interior. You are looking to diffuse your lighting. This should not be confused with background selection - which you will very often want to be black.
Enough for now. There's enough here you keep you busy for several days :-) Have fun.
7th Jun 2015 18:57 UTCMatt Courville
Matt
版权所有© mindat.org1993年至2024年,除了规定的地方。 Mindat.org全赖于全球数千个以上成员和支持者们的参与。
隐私政策 - 条款和条款细则 - 联络我们 - Report a bug/vulnerability Current server date and time: 2024.3.28 23:27:52
隐私政策 - 条款和条款细则 - 联络我们 - Report a bug/vulnerability Current server date and time: 2024.3.28 23:27:52